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The last plumassier: storying dead birds, gender and Paraffection at Maison Lemarié

Research output: Contribution to journalArticle

Original languageEnglish
Pages (from-to)123-134
Number of pages12
Journalcultural geographies
Volume25
Issue number1
Early online date9 Nov 2016
DOIs
DateAccepted/In press - 24 Aug 2016
DateE-pub ahead of print - 9 Nov 2016
DatePublished (current) - 1 Jan 2018

Abstract

Founded in 1875, Maison Lemarié is one of the last remaining plumassiers (feather-makers) anywhere in the world. In highly concentrated and minutely detailed work the artisans at Lemarié painstakingly treat, dye, and apply fragile feathers to haute couture garments. Mindful of preserving these rarefied skills, Chanel (Global Fashion Empire) purchased the workshop in 1997 as part of “Paraffection”. Paraffection, which roughly translates to “for the love of it”, is a Chanel subsidiary company established to preserve and promote the heritage, craft, and manufacturing skills of highly specialised fashion ateliers. By enacting a visit to Maison Lemarié, this paper demonstrates how its heritage and skills are embodied not only in the artisans working there but also in the feathered remains used and housed in the workshop. Unravelling the stories held in human and avian bodies, we suggest, enables a series of broader geographical reflections on skill, gender and Paraffection.

    Research areas

  • Workshop, Gender, Haute Couture, Skill, Archive

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  • Full-text PDF (accepted author manuscript)

    Rights statement: This is the accepted author manuscript (AAM). The final published version (version of record) is available online via SAGE Publications at http://doi.org/10.1177/1474474016673067. Please refer to any applicable terms of use of the publisher.

    Accepted author manuscript, 1 MB, PDF-document

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